QuoteCliffStamp Can one, or both of you, make a video showing : -the knife on the stone -ideally a close in shot, I want to see how the stone is acting to the knife slurry wise -what the sharpness is after the stone -ideally cut some very fine paper, newsprint -the apexing process -similar sharpness test If possible, but not necessary : -shoot the edge on magnification before/afterby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
QuoteSeikogi I find the "holding your stone in hand" method interesting. Objectively it has quite a few drawbacks: You fatigue your non dominant arm by holding the stone in the air You give up on a stable even surface thus have to compensate with your "sharpening hand" for the correct angle You lose the second hand which could be used to guide the blade/apply even pressuby JSCT - TuneUp's
QuoteNothingman Quotejasonstone20 Speaking of VG 10, when I was doing the passivation tests, the VG 10 Spyderco was very hydrophobic, more than the other steels. It was weird. Maybe I had some oil on the blade or something that didn't come off during the cleaning before the passivation. I noticed the same thing with Cliff's passaround Fallkniven H1 in VG-10, definitely strange stuffby JSCT - No safe queens
Quotemarcs As for the Sigma Power II stones only the 1k is SIC the rest are Aliminium Oxide as far as I can gather so that may be part of the problem here. Quotemarcs Yes I ve came across them some time ago.. Its 3rd source of info about stones and they all say something else. Additionally: I contacted german dealer - they have no info and werent willing to contact the manufacturerby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
QuoteCliffStamp Consider for example your knife is harder than wood, I really hope it isby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
QuoteCliffStamp Just to be clear, even the SPS-II's will not cut 10V as fast as AEB-L, 10V has a lower grindability. In fact even diamond/cbn will not cut at the same speed simply because at a given load they will leave a more shallow scratch pattern. Consider for example your knife is harder than wood, that doesn't mean you can just press the knife into wood like it wasn't theby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
Cliff, Yes I expected it will take longer for V4E to sharpen, I could see how much longer it takes to grind on belts compared to something like AEB-L.. everything higher than P120 cuts it real slow relative to the belt speeds.. Perhaps I hoped with some extra time I can free hand it to same sharpness as my other knives.. I still think I may have little ruined the stones surface byby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
QuoteCliffStamp How are you apexing on the stone? I start with 3 to 6 passes per side before alternating side.. back and forth movement with medium to light pressure about 45deg tilt.. Once I notice bevels met I drop to 2pps with light pressure and only edge leading and test edge for feeling little sticky on 3 finger test.. If I am not going to sharpen on finer stone / respectivelyby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
Quotejasonstone20 JSCT, Have you tried the stones with a slurry? Never managed to make slurry on them, they are pretty hard.. But I didnt want to / tried neither..by JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
I also tried various soak times generally long soaks had no benefit over 5-20minutes ones.. even 2minute soak works ok.. stone loads very little.. cutting action is there just with V4E it feels it doesnt cut once pressure is very low - low enough to actually form HHT apex I guess thats what you call ultra light passes when edge barely touches the stone with just fraction of the weight ofby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
Cliff, thanks for the answer, Stone feels it contains more abrasive than anything I came across so far from waterstones.. I tried soaking them twice for over 24h in water with detergent and havent noticed much change in water color nor softening the stone, maybe but I am not sure.. I tried actually all 4 sides of the stone - havent notice any difference and also flat lapped and condby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
QuotecKc I think this is key to it.. when you are going on 1 hunt, and just want a knife to get you through that hunt. s90v might be a great choice. but when you are doing sufficient volume that sharpening is not a nice to have, it starts degrading the value. the less you do, the more you might value carbide. I will rather be sharpening knife 20times in a half year by 2minutes each time,by JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
By my personal experience: Having a conference call of a more than 3/4 ppl is problematic due to the various delays and possibly constant background noises/echoes from participants.. Best is when discussion has a moderator - participants ask for word / question / answer in chat which all can see. Mics are turned off for all who dont currently speak except for the moderator. (a sugby JSCT - The Wood Shed
Intro: Bought a sigma 3k and 10k from here Both stones indeed cut fast relative to their stated grit.. Perhaps they work excellent for AEB-L and RWL-34 and hardness makes no noticable difference.. I am noticing a behaviour similar to usual AlO waterstones.. I used both sigmas to sharpen 2 knives from K110(D2), 2knives from elmax and 2knives from V4E one at 61HRC one at 65.5HRC.. Cby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
I like the length.. I wish I could get a 10k stones so long to finish my edges with one continous move..by JSCT - TuneUp's
Jason, In general use of high wear steel for a kitchen knife makes sense you are actually going to spend hours a day by cutting and you never going to cause other damage to the edge than by slow wear.. Slicing knives are somewhat narrower therefore they have less surface to be ground compared to chefs and also they are used by slicing motion most of time. So if for anything in kitby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
QuotecKc thanks for the info. some nice looking knives He sharpens his knives at 35deg and for kitchen they are some 0.25mm bte in average. this is still very respectable for most people though.. so its not bad. they may or may not be getting better edge retention, but they may possibly highly value the corrosion resistance etc if he takes them to a fine polish. He certainly makes veryby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
QuoteCliffStampI am skeptical of a lot of these posts because it seems self-promotional. Yes it often happens. Thats truth. Perhaps making slicing knife f.e. 230mm edge with lot of distal taper, 0.1mm bte, 2.3mm at the spine, 2mm in the middle and further disappearing towards the tip.. Made such thing out of 3.8mm V4E stock and it takes quite some time. (After ht V4E is similar to grindiby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
QuotecKc QuoteJSCT My friend commonly makes kitchen knives out of elmax and M390 and he complains a lot just to obtain reasonable belt finish. For the contrast: 1) I make AEB-L and RWL-34 kitchen knives that have much keener geometry are longer, significantly more distal tapered and taken to higher finish. And it takes about the same time.. Their edges can get dull faster than high cby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
Question is: What does he consider for a "use" ?by JSCT - Things to read in Denver when you're dead.
(After reading very old discussions between Cliff and Jim years back then when I just discovered this forum) I think Jim Ankerson had prove himself not to want understand certain things long ago perhaps it wouldnt stop him from making claims about steels while he never done an actual material testing. Not sure he has an idea how materials are actually tested at all. You guys (Larrinby JSCT - Things to read in Denver when you're dead.
I am Central European Time Zone: Link - see current timeby JSCT - The Wood Shed
Quotejasonstone20 QuoteJSCT Quotejasonstone20 Cliff, I wonder why the 'super-steels' haven't been popular in kitchen knives like they have been in folders. Kitchen knives typically have 5 to 10 times bigger area to be ground than a folder. This directly traslates into amount of time/labor and spent abrasives. Yeah, Shawn said it took forever and used up a lot of belts to getby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
Quotejasonstone20 Cliff, I wonder why the 'super-steels' haven't been popular in kitchen knives like they have been in folders. Kitchen knives typically have 5 to 10 times bigger area to be ground than a folder. This directly traslates into amount of time/labor and spent abrasives.by JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
QuoteNothingman Interesting note on the Sigma Corporation website for SPS II stones... "Diamond whetstone does shave, not grind." Trying to understand what they could mean by this statement, perhaps translation not good? Japanese sort of differentiate between: If steel is removed by abrasion similar to errosion or slow wear by less sharp particles (nats, AlO) and cby JSCT - TuneUp's
QuoteCliffStamp QuoteShaperAndMower Thanks, can you see comments here : The comments went from awhile as I referenced them in discussions and as soon as I logged out they went away. A number of people have been talking about the blocking, maybe they reversed it - maybe the entire thing is YT being YT. For me it happened this way: By default yt comments are shown by most populby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
Quotemarthinus Interesting discussion. I am contemplating getting 4micron .5 micron and .1 micron as a possible edge for customers, but reading here, now I wonder. Anything sub 1um in abrasive grain size I consider too fine to be beneficial for any cutting task I would use a knife for. I may only strop finer if I am going to shave my face comfortably perhaps most knives have sharpeningby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.
Quotejasonstone20 JSCT, Do you think polishing the edge bevel can keep it from corroding? I am noticing that with using the Spyderco Medium, the high sharpness is dissipating faster, i.e. when the blade is just sitting, not being used. I cannot know what you describe is due to corrosion, but if yes - If you oil the edge and make few runs oiling and few not, can you percept the differenceby JSCT - TuneUp's
Looking forward to your content Jasonby JSCT - I am kind of a big deal.