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        <title>Towards 0.1 Micron Archive - TuneUp&#039;s</title>
        <description>Sharpening, restoration, modifications and all manner of emergency cpr as required to get her back in fighting condition.</description>
        <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/list.php?7</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 12:25:48 +0000</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.23</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80834,80834#msg-80834</guid>
            <title>Cutlery Lover -- Opening A Hard To Open Slipjoint (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80834,80834#msg-80834</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I just got another Rough Rider Seahoarse Whitller, and this one had a stiffer action that is very hard to open action on all the blades so I was looking for ways to loosen up the action and I found this:<br />
<br />
[<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90L_mix62Bs"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90L_mix62Bs"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
<br />
Not much use for loosening the action, but I found it interesting, looping a piece of paper around the blade by folding it and using the folded corner to lift the blade, although it has problems with a sharp blade.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2021 16:25:30 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80795,80795#msg-80795</guid>
            <title>Imperial Barlow (Pawn Shop Rescue) (8 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80795,80795#msg-80795</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I got this today when I was walking back from the store, I decided to check out the knife selection at the neighborhood pawn shop.  This one caught my eye and the price was right:<br />
<a href="https://postimg.cc/BLq8MWPz"  rel="nofollow"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/rm4SyMVq/211298639-553903638966445-1045458494704383813-n.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /></a><br />
<a href="https://postimages.org/"  rel="nofollow"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/SRpcJ3RC/211442437-530387454839694-7860121762911127387-n.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /></a><br />
<br />
I plan on restoring and sharpening it.  I think I am going to leave the chip in the handles because they are plastic, and also leave the patina on the blades.  Most of the work that needs to be done is on the action, it is very hard to open the blades.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 25 Jul 2021 02:10:48 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80602,80602#msg-80602</guid>
            <title>Chosera/Nan pro 2k (8 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80602,80602#msg-80602</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I need some of the experienced water stone users to give me some advice. This is concerning a bevel setter for my straight razor. I actually just bought a Shapton pro 2k and I don&#039;t like it, the reason is because is scratches deep, meaning by the time I get to my Nan/12k it still leaves rogue scratches. It also loads up very quick and feels kinda gummy, not bad but in a way. The reason I bought it was because most everyone&#039;s benchmark for good bevels setter is Chosera 1k, and some guys said the shapton 2k pro is pretty close to a Chosera 1k.. Anyways I would like to know if anyone has any experience with the Chosera/Nan/2k. If so does it finish finer and faster than the Shapton 2k? I am also worried about cracking, although some people have issues while others don&#039;t. I would like to safe myself some grief and frustraion.. Shapton Pros don&#039;t play well with other some manufacturers stones. Every manufacturers grit system can vary a little. .<br />
<br />
<br />
---Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>bricklayer</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 30 Apr 2021 05:44:08 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80599,80599#msg-80599</guid>
            <title>D2 honing steel (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80599,80599#msg-80599</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi everyone, I came across this thread and found it very interesting.  It is a 63Hrc D2 &#039;hone&#039; or &#039;steel&#039;.  The reviewers say it cuts fast.  There is  a video on the last page from the maker.<br />
<br />
I ordered one and can&#039;t wait to try it out! <br />
<br />
<a href="https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/gossmans-flat-sharpening-steels-cut-sharp.149001/"  rel="nofollow">https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/gossmans-flat-sharpening-steels-cut-sharp.149001/</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>chiseen</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 24 Apr 2021 09:22:50 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80489,80489#msg-80489</guid>
            <title>Guided Systems (9 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80489,80489#msg-80489</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I&#039;ve become infatuated with guided systems a bit.  I used my DMT Aligner Pro kit to sharpen a kitchen knife and found it more effective than I remember.  My only issue is the lack of lower angle options.  Clamp systems like this generally suffer from the stone hitting the clamp as angles get below about 20 dps.  Are there systems that allow this low an angle.?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>me2</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 07 May 2021 15:28:45 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80394,80394#msg-80394</guid>
            <title>Sharpening carbides (2 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80394,80394#msg-80394</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ One of our regulars on the Spyderco forum posted s question about whether or not we are sharpening the larger carbides or breaking them out.  I though it was an interesting question that I too have thought about and I would guess many of you &quot;Edge Junky&quot;s&quot; have thought of as well.<br />
<br />
I would like to hear opinions on this, and I would especially respect to hear Cliff&#039;s thoughts on this?<br />
<br />
sal]]></description>
            <dc:creator>sal</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 19 Jan 2021 09:01:38 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80249,80249#msg-80249</guid>
            <title>Kitchen knives blunt super quickly (22 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80249,80249#msg-80249</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hey guys,<br />
<br />
after making some leaps forward in terms of sharpening, I&#039;m experiencing something very strange.<br />
I mainly focused on kitchen chef knives in the last few days. I got 1 in x50crmov15 ~56HRC and 1 in Niolox 61HRC. The problem I&#039;m having is that even after cutting 2 carrots I can already see reflecting parts on the edge.<br />
The sharpeness after the stones allowed me to pushcut newspapaer cross-grain easily and cut curves into the newspaper. Hair was caught above skin. The finishing and deburring stone was a Spyderco Medium. The edge bevels were 15° with a 17° microbevel. Second try was 17° bevel with 19° microbevel. The problem was more or less the same.<br />
I&#039;m starting to think my birch cutting board is causing the problems, because even after intentionally hitting the edge of the cutting board with the Niolox knife, I could see no edge damage at all. But if I slice the knife over the cutting board 50 times with moderate pressure, the edge shows significant damage.<br />
Any ideas? Not deburred properly? Abrasives in the cutting board? Wrong cutting technique?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>sai</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Dec 2020 12:49:43 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80157,80157#msg-80157</guid>
            <title>DMT X-Coarse Black 6&quot;x2&quot; DouSharp Diamond Stone (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80157,80157#msg-80157</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I quick unboxing of the DMT XC Black DouSharp stone:<br />
[<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFvW_XnQ8tM"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFvW_XnQ8tM"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 07 Nov 2020 18:43:00 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80148,80148#msg-80148</guid>
            <title>Spyderco Ceramic Finishing Stones (3 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80148,80148#msg-80148</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have been looking for a good higher grit (1200-3000 grit) finishing stone for kitchen knife use for a while now, had this idea a while back that rather than getting a diamond plate I could just go with the Spyderco&#039;s.  The only concern would be keeping it flat and conditioned, but I believe I have a solution for this that will work quite well so it&#039;s not a hangup for me.  What are other&#039;s experiences with these stones vs good diamond plate like Atoma or DMT?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>YESH</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2020 16:19:27 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80044,80044#msg-80044</guid>
            <title>CBN Sharpening &quot;stone&quot; (42 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,80044,80044#msg-80044</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi all,<br />
<br />
If you&#039;ll pardon the shameless plug, I&#039;d like to mention that we have a new CBN stone, 3&quot; X 8&quot;,  &quot;1/4&quot; thick steel &quot;Embryo&quot; 400 mesh on one side and 800 on the other side.  <br />
<br />
sal]]></description>
            <dc:creator>sal</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 04 Aug 2021 12:46:44 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79907,79907#msg-79907</guid>
            <title>Switching to Freehand Sharpening (9 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79907,79907#msg-79907</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I&#039;ve been sharpening the kitchen knives freehand for a while now.  I just switched over to it for my EDC knives.  Next time I sharpen my reground Delica, that will be the last.  I have that one, a Byrd Tern slip-it, and my Cold Steel Voyager.  I will occasionally reset the edge bevels on my angled blocks.  It&#039;s so much faster to keep the Norton Economy stone by the sink and finish off with a few swipes on my ceramic rod or hand held Sharpmaker stone rather than get blocks and stone out.  It might be nice to get a fine and ultrafine triangle and put handles on them, just to put some distance between them and my fingers.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>me2</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 27 Aug 2020 10:10:48 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79836,79836#msg-79836</guid>
            <title>Any Problems With This Technique to Change Blade Shape? (6 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79836,79836#msg-79836</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Here&#039;s a short video of Ken Schwartz changing the blade shape/profile of Japanese knife that has too much round belly.  He grind the knife into the stone 90 degrees, but not the way you&#039;d expect similar to Hap Stanley&#039;s jointing method... more like scraping the edge vigorously over the stone sideways.  <br />
<br />
Does something like this concern you from a standpoint of causing damage to the knife through overstessing the metal?  Would the damage climb well up into the blade or just be contained at the edge?<br />
<br />
[<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pal9jkQXAsE"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
<br />
I have the same stone and have used it similarly on a Svord EDC knife, works pretty well for this sort of job.  But as mentioned above, I am hesitant to do anything like this again until I have a better idea of what sort of damage might come to blades doing this.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>YESH</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 12 Aug 2020 00:52:19 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79792,79792#msg-79792</guid>
            <title>Suehiro Cerax Users? (5 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79792,79792#msg-79792</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Anybody here using these stones?  I have an interest in the 320 &amp; 1000 for using as muddy bevel setting stones to prep for applying the apex.  <br />
<br />
Do they work well in this regard to minimize the burr?   I was also considering the Naniwa Superstone line with a similar combo of 220 or 400 &amp; 1000, which are known to have the desired properties.  Also, looking at the King Deluxe lineup with the 220 &amp; 800 or 1000 or 1200 stones.<br />
<br />
I only have knife in the Class 1 steels form Svord L6 in the mid 50&#039;s RC up to INFI/AEBL/52100 high 50&#039;s RC, a couple Japanese White Carbon steel up to 63 RC.  Just one more which is 1095 at 67 RC.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>YESH</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2020 17:40:07 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79762,79762#msg-79762</guid>
            <title>Tormek a video and some comments (15 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79762,79762#msg-79762</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This video illustrates many of the issues with jig based systems in how they are used :<br />
<br />
[<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgU3i9Alq9U"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
<br />
The color in the marker to make sure they are hitting the edge bevel, but note this doesn&#039;t tell you if you grind to the apex, you could easily not see marker and be far enough away from the apex that you are not even sharpening the knife. The way most deal with this is to over grind intentionally to get a huge burr that they can see and or feel. <br />
<br />
This is then repeated by regrading the wheel and grinding the entire bevel again (this serves no purpose aside from aesthetics). There is more over grinding to a significant burr. Then a 4000 grit waterstone is used which is regraded with a 1000 grit stone (?) and then the knife is hit with no angle control on powered strop with compound which ends up being a mix of compound + steel. If that leather was a stone everyone would know you would want to clean it for best results, but for some reason people think strops will work ok if clogged with steel.<br />
<br />
In the end the knife is :<br />
<br />
-faceted, you can see multiple uneven grinds<br />
-it barely scrape shaves arm hair<br />
<br />
Now can the Tormek get better results - of course, but this video and so many others so clearly show that $1000 worth of equipment with little understanding of what is happening achieves little. But in general almost all of the Tormek videos have the same issue :<br />
<br />
-they always over grind to huge burrs<br />
-there is micro-beveling<br />
-there is no check for the ability to slice, they just push cut]]></description>
            <dc:creator>CliffStamp</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2020 12:10:08 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79672,79672#msg-79672</guid>
            <title>Tormek T-4 (52 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79672,79672#msg-79672</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <a href="https://postimg.cc/ygxqwk0S"  rel="nofollow"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/C1HFn81J/IMG_20200714_162738.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /></a><b></b><br />
This will be useful once I figure out how to use it.  I thinned out a $0.99 paring knife.  I also sharpened it, and got it sharper than I had been able to get this knife, as these are usually difficult to sharpen past shaving sharp.  I got this one tree-topping.  I didn&#039;t use the stone ehen it had the finer grade set on it, I only used the coarse.  It ground pretty fast.  The knife turned out ugly, but it cuts way better.  I just need to practice.  I sharpened my PM2, and got ok results.  There are just a lot of adjustments and angles on this machine that can be used.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://postimg.cc/zLd6S84D"  rel="nofollow"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/V61wwNRt/received-830944617311891.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /></a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 30 Sep 2020 22:22:34 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79639,79639#msg-79639</guid>
            <title>My japanese water stones and knives journey (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79639,79639#msg-79639</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Originally I was going to post this in this topic - [<a href="https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,34136,page=4"  rel="nofollow">oldforum.beyondt01micron.com</a>]<br />
<br />
but decided that it deserves its own:<br />
<br />
<br />
&quot;For the past couple of years I dipped my toes into the oil stones (both man made and natural) pond and some european made Al2O3 and SiC puddle.<br />
<br />
I am embarking on a journey true japanese water stones and knives.<br />
<br />
After recent work with SPS 1200 and 6000 and single bevel deba knife in shirogami I decided to purchase a deba knife but the only stone I have is 1200 branded Makita (most likely produced by Matsunaga - King).<br />
<br />
After many frustrating hours of youtube and forums I can see three paths in front of me.<br />
<br />
1. Chasing the &quot;kasumi&quot; finish with man made stones (JNS are crazy expensive) - the high contrast between the soft cladding and the hard core. From what I have seen until know - KING 800, KING HYPER 1000 (standart - hard, not the soft one), Suehiro Cerax 1000 give pretty decent &quot;kasumi&quot; finish. <br />
And here I make the link with this topic - Naniwa &quot;Super stone&quot; 400 (nowadays &quot;Sharpening stone&quot; line up) looks like a candidate for such &quot;kasumi&quot; finish. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. Going straight for maximum sharpes and polished bevels - 300 KING, 2000 KING Hyper, 8000 King or 8000 Kitayama/Imanishi Bester&quot;<br />
<br />
Basically I am going to switch to japanese kitchen knives - deba, nakiri, gyuto in the next year and it&#039;s time to buy some stones. <br />
<br />
As an amatior youtube content creator  I want to explore the unknown stones (with too little or no information in Youtube) like KING 300, Imanishi Bester 400, KING Hyper 1000 (both soft and hard /standart/), KING Hyper 2000, KING 8000 gold stone and with small audience, not monetized channel and no vision for patreon support it will take me at least a couple of years because stones are not cheap and free time is diminishing luxury.<br />
<br />
The question is what 5000-6000 grit stone keeps the &quot;kasumi&quot; finish - Suehiro Rika 5000, Shapton 5000 or just micro bevel and polish the back side - the &quot;ura oshi&quot; on 6000-8000 King or 8000 Kitayama/Imanishi Bester or even on a Translucent Arkansas (I tried it and it works).  <br />
<br />
Is esthetic more important than sharpness and is the &quot;kasumi&quot; finish only a forum trend and unnecessary complication to a straightforward sharpening job?<br />
<br />
What is your set of stones and techniques for Shirogami and Aogami single bevel japanese kitchen knives?<br />
<br />
What other unknown/ less known stones do you recollect?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>stefan_wolf</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 14 Jul 2020 09:32:33 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79607,79607#msg-79607</guid>
            <title>Sharpening Large Recurves On Flat Benchstones (4 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79607,79607#msg-79607</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have a couple larger roughly 10&quot; chopping blades that have a fairly mellow recurve to them, but not sure whether I need to pickup a curved stone to really address the edge properly.  Though I haven&#039;t tried yet, I suspect a flat bench stone would work just fine... but obviously not ideal.  Anybody here tried this before?  Results or recommendations welcome, thanks!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>YESH</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 13 Jul 2020 09:14:34 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79514,79514#msg-79514</guid>
            <title>Recommendation - Full Size Diamond Plate For Apexing (12 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79514,79514#msg-79514</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I will be using this to put the final apex on a Japanese nakiri style knife that I use daily in the kitchen.  It will be plateau sharpened either with 1,000 grit stone or if necessary to use the higher grit diamond plates I would purchase something like a 320 &amp; 3000 combo to bridge the gap.  <br />
<br />
The knife gets used (so far anyways) with a draw cut pushed away from the body to slice through vegetables.  The highest I have taken the apex to is DMT Extra Fine or Fine.  This has been used with a Diafold, but I would like to purchase a nice full size bench stone as the Diafold just is not ideal for a bigger blade.<br />
<br />
I remember Cliff posting about problems he was having with certain higher grit DMT plates, I want to say it may have been Medium Extra Fine.  Did you ever figure out what was going on or have it replaced?  Did it just wear in to where it was not leaving the odd heavy grit scratching on the apex?<br />
<br />
I was also looking at the Atoma 1200, which may be all I really need anyways.  Anybody here using them currently? I also can&#039;t help but wonder if something like the Atoma 600 or DMT Fine may be better as it&#039;s more of a slice.<br />
 <br />
I am not doing ANY chopping type cutting with it, mainly just the weight of the knife when I draw it forward causes it to just fall almost effortlessly through the veggies.  Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>YESH</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2020 07:17:45 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79402,79402#msg-79402</guid>
            <title>Blade Thinning - Why You (probably) NEVER need to: Knife Q&amp;A (27 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79402,79402#msg-79402</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ [<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m4IEaQDKLg"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
<br />
A few points about this video (only dealing with that one question)<br />
<br />
-he completely mischaracterizes Carters position<br />
<br />
Carter sharpens the way he does because he only cares for performance not aesthetics, hence :<br />
<br />
-it shows the clear difference between a hobby sharpener and a professional sharpener (Carter)<br />
<br />
-he is completely off on one radial point, edge thickness<br />
<br />
In regards to the latter, he notes reducing the edge thickness will lower edge retention, that isn&#039;t the case in general, and would only be the case if you thinned the blade to the point the primary grind collapsed in cutting, but that isn&#039;t the edge going dull, it is the blade suffering gross failure and to do that by stones, well it is beyond the ability of almost anyone in hand sharpening. <br />
<br />
He also makes odd comments like he knows professional chefs who have used a knife for 30 years and never had it thinned. Well if you have never had to sharpen a knife in 30 years enough to thicken the edge, it just means you didn&#039;t use it a lot or you are willing to use it dull.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>CliffStamp</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2020 19:25:27 +0000</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79359,79359#msg-79359</guid>
            <title>Trouble Sharpening Robert Herder Windmill Knife Wharncliffe Paring Knife (19 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79359,79359#msg-79359</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have issues apexing the Herder knife.  I have a hard time getting it to shave.  It will just start cutting into the skin vs shave hair.  I have to use a Spyderco Triangle Rod on the point part with trailing passes to get it to apex cleanly.  This is after an EZE-Lap XC #220 grit diamond hone, King 1k, and Naniwa Fuji 8K, Dan&#039;s Surgical Black Arkansas stone.  The blade was sharpened flat against the stone on all stones except the Surgical Black Arkansas and the Spyderco UF Rod.  Oddly, the base of the blade would get shaving sharp, while the rest of it would not.  It passes the Murray Carter 3-finger test, after the Spyderco UF Rod.  The blade had a small burr after the XC diamond stone.<br />
<br />
PS.  I tried stropping, and that helped the edge somewhat, but it only got the blade to scrap shave, and it still cut into my skin.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 08 Jul 2020 09:55:02 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79298,79298#msg-79298</guid>
            <title>Troubleshooting help: U-Shaped cuts on paper? (3 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79298,79298#msg-79298</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I think I have figured out the likely cause but just want to double check myself with the group and see if anyone else has experienced this and may have some helpful tips. <br />
<br />
Something I’ve noticed happening to me, typically always when cutting phone book paper against the grain, is I get U-shaped cuts out of the paper. Example image:<br />
<br />
<img src="http://jayloden.com/csforum/u-cut.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
I’m doing slicing cuts across the grain testing sharpness off the stones (haven’t graduated to push cuts against the grain just yet :D). The same knife cuts cleanly vertically with the grain and at 45 degrees to the grain, typically only run into this cross-grain.  <br />
<br />
What I *think* is happening is that the heel of the knife is not as sharp, so it’s folding the paper edge over. Then as I slide along it’s hitting the sharpest part of the edge which slices through the folded edge easily and leaves that distinctive shape. I noticed tonight on the blade where this is happening that it had a particularly sharp section towards the forward 1/3 or so of the edge towards the tip. That area could push cut phone book paper for example. <br />
<br />
Does that make sense, and did I diagnose the cause correctly? And if so anyone have any tips that helped them for getting more even sharpness along the edge especially towards the heel?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jloden</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 30 Jun 2020 18:31:52 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79228,79228#msg-79228</guid>
            <title>Super-High Micro-Bevels (4 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79228,79228#msg-79228</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Sometimes, when I am having issues with a blade getting sharp or removing the burr, the only thing that works are super high leading passes.  I am not just talking double the angle, I am talking angles at 70° DPS.  Yet the edge still cuts well when I am finished.  I don&#039;t understand what is happening, and why this works.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 26 Jun 2020 20:01:34 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79155,79155#msg-79155</guid>
            <title>An Easy Way To Plateau Sharpen (5 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79155,79155#msg-79155</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This is a short video.  Used is a Douk-Douk knife, Task garden hone, 1k King, and Spyderco UF rod.<br />
[<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvbTpWvJlUA"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]<br />
[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvbTpWvJlUA"  rel="nofollow">www.youtube.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 03 Jul 2020 11:33:08 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79006,79006#msg-79006</guid>
            <title>Honing Oil Recommendations? (9 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,79006,79006#msg-79006</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I&#039;ve got a couple oil stones I&#039;d like to put into service, the problem is I&#039;m left wondering what sort of oil I should use for this since I&#039;ve only ever used water stones.  What are your thoughts?  Are designer &#039;Honing Oil&#039; brands actually offering anything other than a higher price compared to using something like food grade mineral oil?  Are they adding any other ingredients to improve the metal removal rate or any other tangible benefits to the user?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>YESH</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 21 Jun 2020 21:48:35 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78964,78964#msg-78964</guid>
            <title>DMT Dia-Sharp 11.5x2.5 (10 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78964,78964#msg-78964</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Got one of these a while ago and it’s just recently started to really come into line with the expected behavior, it’s starting to produce extremely sharp edges with very little effort:<br />
<br />
[<a href="https://www.bitchute.com/video/9HT2peig44ED/"  rel="nofollow">www.bitchute.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Ryan Nafe</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Dec 2020 21:11:11 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78917,78917#msg-78917</guid>
            <title>Pamphlet (1905) -- Oilstones:  How To Use And Select Them (32 pages) (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78917,78917#msg-78917</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This looks interesting:<br />
<br />
[<a href="https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc1.31175035165789&amp;view=1up&amp;seq=1"  rel="nofollow">babel.hathitrust.org</a>]<br />
<br />
I really like oilstones, especially the natural ones.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 20 Jun 2020 16:02:22 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78863,78863#msg-78863</guid>
            <title>Sharpening Stones People Hate (10 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78863,78863#msg-78863</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Let&#039;s start with the King 220/Sun Tiger 220.  Everyone hates this stone for some reason.  And that reason is it cuts slow with a slurry, and it creates a slurry readily.  To get this stone to work for you, flush the slurry, use light pressure, and keep it flat.  I love this stone once I did those things.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 21 Jun 2020 18:07:36 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78850,78850#msg-78850</guid>
            <title>Razor Edge Systems Hones - anyone try them? (10 replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78850,78850#msg-78850</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Ok I&#039;m really curious... anyone here ever try the Razor Edge Systems &quot;hones&quot; before? <br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.razoredgesystems.com/products/hones/"  rel="nofollow">https://www.razoredgesystems.com/products/hones/</a> <br />
<br />
I own a copy of <i>The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening</i> - in fact it&#039;s the first book I ever remember seeing on sharpening ~20 years ago. Now that I&#039;m getting deep into sharpening and experimenting with various abrasives &amp; techniques I&#039;m very curious about these. To be honest I didn&#039;t realize until this morning they were still even sold. I just sort of assumed they had sort of disappeared like many other mail order businesses in the late 90s.<br />
<br />
Might pick up a set just to experiment, but thought I&#039;d ask on the forum here if anyone owns these or has tried them and has any feedback. It&#039;s interesting to me they have next to no information on them (abrasive type, binder... heck, the website doesn&#039;t even list the full dimensions of each hone).<br />
<br />
It&#039;s several years old but this was the video that prompted me to look for them today and see if they were still sold: <br />
<br />
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heASQGup7nw[/video]<br />
<br />
Side note: I had to chuckle at the description where he says he contacted the company to ask what grit rating and they told him &quot;Coarse and Extra Fine&quot; (:P)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jloden</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 20 Jun 2020 15:35:33 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78806,78806#msg-78806</guid>
            <title>BladeForums -- Tormek Formula And Calculations (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78806,78806#msg-78806</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ [<a href="https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/tormek-etc-calculation-of-tool-rest-position-for-desired-angle.1712819/"  rel="nofollow">www.bladeforums.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:48:45 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78804,78804#msg-78804</guid>
            <title>BladeForums -- Old Hickory Cabbage Knife Mod (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?7,78804,78804#msg-78804</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ [<a href="https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/old-hickory-cabbage-knife-mod.1713200/"  rel="nofollow">www.bladeforums.com</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>TuneUp&#039;s</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:47:23 +0000</pubDate>
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