Fame, fortune and riches await; materials and methods for the ancient craft of functional edged tools. https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/list.php?17 Wed, 13 May 2026 13:03:48 +0000 Phorum 5.2.23 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,75573,75573#msg-75573 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,75573,75573#msg-75573 Spyderco Forum Poll

I think this would be a great idea. I remember blades for some companies being sold dull, you had to put your own edges on them. I don't think this is a bad practice, and since Spyderco doesn't offer replacement blades, it would be a great option if your blade breaks, is worn out, or you want to try a different steel.]]> jasonstone20 Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Mon, 13 Jul 2020 22:16:52 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,75440,75440#msg-75440 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,75440,75440#msg-75440 www.bladeforums.com]

[knifesteelnerds.com]

The chemistry is nominally 1.48% C, 16% Cr, 3% V, 2% Mo, .5% Nb and .15% N]]> jasonstone20 Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Sat, 28 Mar 2020 15:09:13 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,75211,75211#msg-75211 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,75211,75211#msg-75211 www.youtube.com]
[www.youtube.com]]]> jasonstone20 Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Sat, 14 Sep 2019 21:57:51 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,74664,74664#msg-74664 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,74664,74664#msg-74664
I have a 6" bench grinder and I want to convert it to a buffer. So would a 4" buffing wheel work on my bench grinder? Also i have questions about those arbor motor extensions - not the spindel type but the regular extensions. I was reading online and some people say you need to buy a left threaded spindels for the left shaft and a right one for the right. They said because the threads on the left shaft turn clock wise, and on the right counter clock wise - if you get two rights then the wheel will not stay tight. Some say it doesn't matter - that one kind will work on either side. I dunno?]]> bricklayer Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Fri, 17 May 2019 08:47:10 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,74633,74633#msg-74633 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,74633,74633#msg-74633 C: 1.25%
Cr: 0.3
Mn: 0.38
That is it. First batch went on sale today at noon, sold out by 5PM. As quenched hardness Rc67-68. Will be interesting to see how it works.
scott]]> oldsailorsknives Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Tue, 28 Jul 2020 19:31:48 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,74609,74609#msg-74609 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,74609,74609#msg-74609 www.bladeforums.com] I was quite surprised that 8670 currently has the highest rating, with Z-Tuff in second. Z-Tuff does have better wear resistance and better stain resistance(not sure by how much as it is only 7.5% chromium.)
8670/BE86/SKS5 is an old tool steel used for saw blades and such, think L6 with less nickel and chrome. Basic heat treat, 800C for 10-15 minutes, quench in oil, two one hour tempers. $19 for steel to make a cleaver/chopper with a 8"x 3" blade with 4" tang.
Z-Tuff is a newer powder steel from Zapp. for steel to make a cleaver/chopper with a 0.21" x 8"x 3" blade with 4" tang.
more later.
scott]]> oldsailorsknives Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Mon, 06 May 2019 04:04:13 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,73838,73838#msg-73838 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,73838,73838#msg-73838
I heated up a 1/2" bar of steel until it was glowing and quenched it into either water, glycerin heated to 185f to reduce viscosity, or some old soy oil. I then checked the temperature of the rod after varying amounts of time in the quenchant. There are a lot of sources of significant error in this test. For one, the IR thermometer sensor is larger than half inch diameter and would therefore underestimate the temperature of the rod ("190f" would sizzle water). I also didn't measure the behavior up near 1000f where the pearlite nose lives, and perhaps differences in vapor blanket behavior changes the shape of the cooling curve.

It seems pretty promising though. Hot glycerin only took about 40% longer than pure water to reach "450f", yet is like oil in how slowly the temperature drops once it reaches Ms temperatures. Here's the data.

Has anyone played with it or similar quenchants, or have any reason why it might not work well?]]> jimmyh Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Fri, 25 Jan 2019 21:53:24 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,73563,73563#msg-73563 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,73563,73563#msg-73563 BladeForums Thread]]> jasonstone20 Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Fri, 14 Dec 2018 04:08:02 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,71347,71347#msg-71347 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,71347,71347#msg-71347 3 photos

3 photos

2 photos

lapping disc and shaft assembly

lapping disc and shaft mount

Axial bearing used - laid on A4 folder]]> JSCT Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Wed, 10 Jun 2020 23:37:51 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,71190,71190#msg-71190 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,71190,71190#msg-71190
Dealer stated;

"Unfortunately I cannot say which way this sheet was rolled. However,
they come to us in 320x1000mm sheets to us, and they are bent slightly
along the 320mm widht. Meaning that the rolls were likely 1000mm wide.

We cut the 320x1000mm into quarters, 320x250mm, and this would mean than
the 320mm side would be the rolled one. Cutting it may have affected the
bend (?), but check if its a bit off that way. "

Perhaps here are the photos I made:

Pic1

Pic2

Pic3

I can see surface marks as a lines perpendicullar to the imaginary axis around which the sheet is bent.
From wich I would judge the rolling orientation was not what I was told..

I never really worked in the steel mill but I know well these are delivered in coils and then uncoiled..
I assume orientation of coiling and rolling to be the same one.

Is there anything I forgot to consider except not believig the dealer ?]]> JSCT Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Mon, 18 Jun 2018 11:17:26 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,70573,70573#msg-70573 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,70573,70573#msg-70573 KWB Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Fri, 23 Mar 2018 01:13:35 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,69243,69243#msg-69243 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,69243,69243#msg-69243 [www.trueforge.com]
max temperature is 2200F. will handle pieces up to 36 x 13 x 11 FEET
to complete the shop
[www.trueforge.com]
a basic 6000 ton hydraulic press with a 27' x 10' die table]]> oldsailorsknives Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Fri, 08 Dec 2017 20:43:22 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,68700,68700#msg-68700 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,68700,68700#msg-68700 I've been teaching the guys in Nepal some new techniques and I've had them experimenting with different Patinas and acid treatments.
This blade here was dunked into boiling vinegar, taken out and had the scale rubbed off then dunked again. A nice even darkness all over, except along the edge where it's significantly darker.




Now my initial thought was cool, we edge quench our blades and this has brought out the hamon. It's the same shape on both sides but doesn't quite make sense. For starters it's a fair bit lower than I imagined the hamon line would have been. More importantly it's darker than the steel above, not lighter as you'd usually see. Steel is 5160, oil quenched and tempered. Could this potentially be an artifact from the etching process? Some area which was more greatly affected due to the edge acting as a nucleation point for bubbles or something? Or has this steel somehow lost chromium or through some other method lost corrosion resistance along the blade edge?
Any input or discussion welcome. I'm pretty lost on this one.]]> fugglesby Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Thu, 23 Apr 2020 08:00:12 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,68638,68638#msg-68638 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,68638,68638#msg-68638 Old Spice Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Fri, 13 Oct 2017 01:29:08 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,67730,67730#msg-67730 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,67730,67730#msg-67730 www.kitchenknifeforums.com]
my point is many western makers have made knives that try to emulate the best of honyaki and other japanese blades which I guess means high hardness and small edge angles. while they might be a very good tool, is it the ultimate??
I will never find out. the idea of spending $1000 on a knife I cant see or touch be4 purchase?]]> oldsailorsknives Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Mon, 05 Feb 2018 05:01:56 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,66962,66962#msg-66962 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,66962,66962#msg-66962 www.ebay.com] I know when using a fabric disc for polishing we use the same compounds as the lapidary folks.]]> oldsailorsknives Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Thu, 11 Oct 2018 02:32:04 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,65990,65990#msg-65990 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,65990,65990#msg-65990
Neels Van den Berg]]> mccullen Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Wed, 13 Sep 2017 05:21:31 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,65567,65567#msg-65567 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,65567,65567#msg-65567 goo.gl] and with this we have a thumb on our machine which I had planned to mount a removal half moon shaped blade. Here is an equivalent machine [youtu.be] you can see he has a thumb that is where I plan to mount the removal blade which will intersect between the above image.

My question is how thick of stock would it need to be? The blade will need to be around 12in high and 12 in wide. I have looked and cant find a thumb with a blade much less want to spend the money they want for it if they did.

Should note the bucket breakout force is over 6000 lb ft, and the load may not always vertical some may see lateral force as well.

Since I dont have one of these [goo.gl] this is my solution to consolidate brush and stumps for loading out later.]]> KWB Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Sat, 29 Apr 2017 01:03:36 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,64909,64909#msg-64909 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,64909,64909#msg-64909
[www.facebook.com]]]> Chum Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Wed, 09 Aug 2017 12:36:42 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,64834,64834#msg-64834 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,64834,64834#msg-64834
I was hoping to use these for changing geometry of blade grinds or profiles on knives that have already been heat treated. Now I realize files generally are not recommended for hardened steel, but these were advertised to cut hardened steel.

What would be foolish to attempt to grind with these? I would imagine something in the low 50s would work great, but my concern is over anything in the high 50s to low 60s. Thoughts?]]> YESH Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Mon, 27 Mar 2017 18:48:36 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,63654,63654#msg-63654 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,63654,63654#msg-63654
I can see two pros.
1) cost and conservation of raw materials
Hitachi chooses not to export its Shirogami and Aogami lines of cutlery steel. On BF, Aldo discussed trying unsucessfully to obtain some in commercial quantities, by the ton. Hitachi can name it's price for what it wishes to release. So, if one has the equipment to forge weld, you layer your expensive piece of blade steel between 2 piece of less expensive steel. when making the finished blade, very little of the expensive steel ground off.
2) an almost stainless knife without the expense and extra work
if I wrap my piece of Aogami with 300 or 400 series stainless Warikomi style, the only part of my blade that would be prone to corrosion would be the edge.
I have never made any or used any or touched or seen in person a san-mai or warikomi blade. am i off base? what are the other pros and cons?]]> oldsailorsknives Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Sun, 01 Jan 2017 04:39:43 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,63335,63335#msg-63335 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,63335,63335#msg-63335
Recently i came across these stocks:

[www.zknives.com]

Has anyone here heard of this? if so, can you share if it is a good steel for blade making?

I have also compared it to Calmax.

Thank you for your input.

Jay:)]]> Berserker Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Tue, 29 Nov 2016 02:40:29 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,62448,62448#msg-62448 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,62448,62448#msg-62448
I've got quite a few other Spydercos made from VG-10, as well as Falkniven

I thought this stuff was pretty rust resistant, at least my Spydercos are.

But the Tojiro DP kitchen knives rust pretty quickly. Small water spots become rust spots.

I have to get on my wife about this. I don't have a quantification about the speed yet, but I'm thinking of doing some tests and possibly some time lapse photos.

So my question is, do different heat treats make a knife more or less vulnerable to stains or rust?

I'm questioning now whether the Tojiro DP is really VG-10.]]> les_garten Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Tue, 20 Sep 2016 19:56:51 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,62397,62397#msg-62397 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,62397,62397#msg-62397
I have one of the Spyderco Mules in it and my impressions are favorable, but that doesn't say much. I'm happy enough with the grind, ease of sharpening, and edge holding that I've thought about picking up a 2nd one while they're still available though.

I wondered if it might be expected to perform similarly or be a domestic alternative to Niolox at all?

Composition reference:

(Given my near total lack of actual knowledge about metallurgy, I know I shouldn't try to glean any insight from these zknives charts, but I look at them anyway.)

Cliff previously had this to say on the Spyderco forum:

"I think it is a very interesting steel as what you have is something very similar to 19C27/MBS-26 with a small amount of MC carbides (~1%). There are lots of very high MC carbide steels with 4-10% MC carbide volume but not a lot of quality knives in the middle ground. Now I like AEB-L and similar steels, but there are times when you don't want fine / high sharpness edge retention but jumping from AEB-L to S35VN is a huge step, and moves steels away from being sharpened on traditional/natural abrasives for example. It would be nice to see this with a 1100 C soak, oil quench, extend to low temperature, multiple low tempers 350-400 F."
Source

I've noticed there seems to be appetite on the Spyderco forum lately for more moderate steels, but the B70P mule was basically ignored. I don't think any of the tester types reviewed it, for better or worse. I tend to think it might be sort of a missed opportunity for folks who claim to be looking for a "balanced" steel.]]> Nate T Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Fri, 07 Apr 2017 21:52:11 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,60816,60816#msg-60816 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,60816,60816#msg-60816 KWB Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Fri, 29 Jul 2016 02:10:37 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,60560,60560#msg-60560 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,60560,60560#msg-60560 KWB Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Sat, 20 Aug 2016 14:21:20 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,59688,59688#msg-59688 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,59688,59688#msg-59688 working 3V chopper specs below?

3/16" or 7/32" thick x 2" wide, 10.5" blade (16" OAL), 0.020"BET, 17dps, 64-65RC

5K sharpened edge that capable of withstand hard/all-my-strength chopping: seasoned [pin-knotted pine; oak; olive; ebony] - w/o visible damage.

I am looking for your thoughts on feasibility of success or wise words range from waste$ to futile to stup*d B)]]> bluntcut Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Sun, 05 Jun 2016 15:36:34 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,59326,59326#msg-59326 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,59326,59326#msg-59326
A water pic also failed to make the water stick to the belt.

More recently I acquired a slower grinder and the drip system kinda worked again, especially in combination with a sponge wiper, but it eats up sponges and requires constant adjustment

For months I have been trying to rig up a system that will work better. I bought a set of coolant flex hoses, the smallest nozzles of which are way too large so I shrank them, and used a tile saw pump to recirculate the water. I learned those flex nozzles will not hold more than a couple psi, and a tile pump will clog very quickly. Before clogging it would sort of work at low speed.

Yesterday I ran about 40 psi through a garden hose out to my shop and a pinprick nozzle giving about 10 liters per hour. This wets the belt, and the blade, even at the high speed of my medium speed grinder. It also mists everything, and the drips of water off the 36" blade miss my drip tray and puddle on the plywood floor. I was soaked too, but not dusty :)

It gets to -40 here so a better system will be needed for pressurized water... I think I can manage that as well as set it up to have additives to the water, but the part I need help with is control of water after it has been used. Right now my best idea is to grind outside and let the water spray on the ground. Outside I can build a rocket heater to keep it survivable in winter.

Need to run high speed for efficiency, need coolant for the same reason also to save the edge when it forms. It was so easy back when I had time to grind slow...

Thanks in advance for ideas!]]> wnease Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Sat, 07 Oct 2017 12:55:03 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,59218,59218#msg-59218 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,59218,59218#msg-59218
As always, it starts with importing some Ti from our good friend American Metals Exchange and other things I might want to experiment with from USA Knifemaker. PSA discs were imported from Tru-Grit.





Next up was to buy my own grinder and mill. I previously worked on Andre Thorburns equipment but thanks to the support of the knife community I have slowly but surely been able to buy my own equipment.

Grinder and disc grinder from HERBST in South Africa







This was my simple setup with 3-Phase inverter. I will have to get a steel box for the inverter. I was shocked at the amount of dust in the garage, not only from grinding, but from the vehicles that drive past the flat.



Then some steel supply.



After all supplies have been bought I send the sheets to be cut via waterjet. This and heat treatment is the only part I do not do myself.

After everything has been waterjet I use a template to drill and mark the position of the hidden stop pin. This took some trial and error but the results were spot on. Before applying the template I hit everything on the disc to clean up the parts.







Then hand file to fit the blade in the open and closed position and also tap everything that needs to be tapped.









Pre-Heat treatment raceways.



Jimping on flipper



Blades and backspacer is off to heat treatment and then surface grinding. Then back onto the lathe for cleanup and final cut of raceways.



I then do the hidden over travel stop pin and do the fitting and tapping for the screw.



One thing that surprised me was the amount of trial and error on building jigs for the mill. Here is one experiment in process in order to cut the lock relief.



Grinding:







Then cleaning up all the nooks and crannies.



Fitting backspacer and cleaning the frames



Cleaning and polishing the hidden over travel pin. You can see the difference between one off the lathe compared to one that is being cleaned in the below picture.



Start contouring the handles



I experimented with the contouring using a slack belt, but will continue to experiment in future.



Clips getting cleaned up, fitted and tapped on the handle



I actually had a jog climb out of the vice on me. Scary thing at 2200 pm. Turned out the screws on the vice came lose over time. :eeek: LOCKTITE those screws in place. :toxdance:



Then assemble, detent balls and fit locks.



Satin blade, mirror flats, satin backspacer and jeweling of the frames.









Then logo time.

I do a chemical etch process. First image shows the negative and the second image the results.







Bead blasting, I have a cheap blaster, but it does the job. The compressor is just way too small so one depletes the compressed air quickly.



Finally as part of the final assembly I contour all the screws and polish them.



Here are the results:





Video can be seen here:

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBeIQOuk-4k[/video]

There are a few things left out in the post such as countersinking the pivot head, deburring every hole after being drilled etc.

Thanks for watching]]> marthinus Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Fri, 27 May 2016 10:53:25 +0000 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,58882,58882#msg-58882 https://oldforum.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?17,58882,58882#msg-58882
I guess many of you are aware of this show at History Channel. For my part, I wasn't aware of it until recently as I have only the french version of History Channel and they have now been airing the first season in french for a couple of weeks only.

I don't understand how they can produce a functional blade in three hours (yes 3 hours!) as only a basic hardening heat treatment (quench + 2x2h temper cycles) is longer than 3 hours. Also, don't these blades require an additional heat treatment (before the hardening HT) to correct the defects induce by the forging process (which makes the whole process even longer)? Moreover, when they are grinding, the huge shower of sparks we can see tell me that they are probably over heating the steel quite a lot...

I understand that time constraints is part of the challenge, but since the goal is to produce a functional blade, I think 3 hours is ridiculous as not only a quality blade cannot be made in that time but it let the general public (non-knife people) believe it can be.

What do you think?]]> SVallieres Under the hammer (or in front of the grinder) Sun, 26 Feb 2017 20:21:15 +0000